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Thread: What Do I Need To Make The Pictures Look Better?

  1. #11
    Moderator Chadwick will become famous soon enough Chadwick will become famous soon enough
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    Ingsy and BrianStanier have done a good job explaining the problem and the solutions.

    Basically, your little on-camera flash simply isn't powerful enough to light up the whole bowling complex evenly. The pictures you strive after are only possible by using multiple lighting units, all set up to give an appropriate amount of light to the area of the scene that they will cover, and all linked ("slaved") to the camera. You will need a lot more equipment to replicate those pictures - I would guess there are some big studio lights just out of the frame.

    In the meantime, you can improve your results by putting the camera in Shutter Priority (Tv it's called on a Canon), and Spot Metering mode, and meter of a light grey area in the mid-background. Select a shutter speed of about 1/125 (or whatever your flash sync speed is) and adjust the ISO until you get an aperture of around f11. If you want to blur the background, you can open the aperture up to f5.6 or lower.

    If your foreground subjects come out too bright when you use the flash, then you should try one, some or all of the following:
    1) point the flash gun (if you are using one) up at the ceiling.
    2) use a diffuser over the flash to soften the light. Tissue paper or tracing paper works well, or a bit of white material.
    3) Dial in some flash compensation to reduce the power of the flash.

    I think all of this has been mentioned above already.

  2. #12
    Rpoints Elite Silhouette
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    Here’s a quick question (its already sounding stupid in my head!)

    But if I get a flash gun to go on the hot shoe… then can I point it behind me (diagnonally up) and put a mini studio umbrella on it?

    I thought the idea of the big umbrellas was that it evened out the flash and spread it nicely (without bouncing light of peoples sweaty foreheads?)

    I know it sounds crazy – and ive never seen a mini lighting umbrella – but I thought that would be genius

    If not – ill just point the gun at the ceiling.

    I'm yet to buy the gun – can anyone recommend a bargain of the century that’ll do the job? I'm currently toying with this one

    http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.d...m=290334626343

  3. #13
    Rpoints Elite Silhouette
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    Also - would the Macro Ring Flash be no good? I though perhaps a wider flash would spread quite evenly?

  4. #14
    Rpoints Elite Silhouette
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    ANother question... somebody just said "TTL Flash"

    What does that mean?

  5. #15
    Rpoints Elite Silhouette
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    Does this seem a little too good for the price?

    http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/DIGITAL-CAMERA...d=p3286.c0.m14

  6. #16
    Moderator Chadwick will become famous soon enough Chadwick will become famous soon enough
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    A macro ring flash is a circular ring that fits over the front of the lens. The flash bulb is thus in a circle around the lens and when photographing close-ups will therefore avoid shadows, as the light comes from all directions. It is also used in portraiture sometimes, but it is of no use to you in your situation.

    TTL means "through the lens". It means the flash gun can get exposure information from the camera's own metering system and will work with your camera to deliver what it thinks is the right amount of flash. If you buy a Canon brand flash, it should be compatible with your Canon camera in this way. Other brands will vary as to how compatible they are.

    Before you splash out on a flash gun, it's worth noting that your problem is not lack of light (ie. need a bigger flash gun), it is getting the light in the right places. You need to get more light on your background without overexposing the foreground. The simplest way of doing this is to have some form of lighting on the background, set up your camera so the backgound records as you would like it, and then adjust a camera-mounted flash to add light to the foreground subjects. You will find that diffusers, umbrellas, softboxes etc will all improve the quality of the light, but these all cost money and take time to learn and master.

  7. #17
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    Unfortunately – as much as I can control the kids and adults bowling (the actual actors) the site wont be closed and we’ll have plenty going on in the backgrounds (which will just be brucey bonus)

    So I don’t think I can set up any studio lighting. Also, by the sounds of the shoot, its just to add a few lifestyle shots to our library – and I don’t think im going to have much to spend – perhaps £100 (or £200 if I really justify it)

    I did see some studio lights with the umbrellas for £119.99 not so long ago (might have been eBay) but would have to be bargains.

    For a quick win – it might just be a bigger flash with the diffuser over it…

    Just for a bit of a better shot… without breaking the bank!

  8. #18
    Contributor thingy
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    sorry if someone has already mentioned these things.

    1,PUT YOUR CAMERA ON MANUAL !
    2,Set it to SHTTER PRIORITY, you can easily find which way makes the shutter stay open longer=blur and which is quicker=sharp but less depth of field.
    3,Set the ISO to 400 if you are not going to enlarge to a great extent you may be able to go further (sorry I dont have that camera)
    4,Go to the bowling ally and dont worry about composition or anything just take some photographs changing the length of time you have the shutter open for. If you cant get enough light to blur ratio then you should purchase a flash.
    5,What someone else has tried to explain is the F number that is written on your lenses, the larger the number the more light you require to use that lens so an F2 would be perfect for your purpose but an F4.5 would make your life more difficult.
    6,You could get another body, they are making bodies that are described as "being able to see in the dark" now. If you read the reviews you need to look for ISO the larger the number the more capable of working at low light. You need to see at what stage they mention noise, this is when the picture gets dots and spoils the picture.
    7,Research, practice and some good luck!!!!!!!!

  9. #19
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    TTL flash (Thru The Lens) its basically having the flash set to automatic, basically there is enough intelligence in the camera to get a reading through the lens so the camera can tell the flash what power to flash at. Fine but if your moving around ie shooting a wedding reception the power is going to fluctuate meaning some times it will be powerful, other times not so, which is a pain as your pics will all look different, but thats a whole other ball game

    it's a case of balancing shutter speed and f stop, then uping the ISO to get a decent exposre

    I always start with what depth of field I want, so in this case about f5.6 to f8 should be OK, then you want to get a fairly decent shutter speed. to kill motion around 1/125 will do then up the ISO until your exposure is good

    Don't be toooo scared going higher ISO, I regulary shoot 1600, but I find the trick is to over expose slightly and when processing my RAW files, just pull down the exposure slightly to keep the fine clean (ie less noise in image)

    get stuck feel free to PM

  10. #20
    Banned NathalieTravels is an unknown quantity at this point
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    I always tend to edit them with either photoshop or photofiltre - I can never get my camera settings right!
    blythburgh likes this.


 

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